FAQs Archive - Lilypad Pond Services

Q: I'm just outside Kent — can you still help?

We're a fully mobile team, so it's worth asking. Call or send a message with your postcode and we'll let you know if we can take the job on.

Q: Do you offer the same services in every area?

Yes — every area we cover gets the full range: pond maintenance, clean-outs, water testing, filter servicing, relines and repairs, plus aquarium installation and maintenance.

Q: How quickly can you respond, wherever I am in Kent?

Our inbox is monitored daily and we aim to respond to all enquiries within 24 hours, regardless of which part of Kent you're in.

Q: Is there an extra charge for areas further from Medway?

Get in touch with your postcode and we'll give you a straightforward quote that reflects your location — no surprises on the day.

Q: Do you cover my area?

We're based in Medway and cover the whole of Kent. If your town isn't listed on this page, get in touch with your postcode and we'll confirm coverage.

Q: Can I top up my pond during a hose pipe ban?

To answer simply, YES you can top up your pond even during a hose pipe ban. Fish are covered under the Animal Welfare Act 2006, one of the five needs stated in that law is “To be housed in a suitable environment” this covers a pond being adequately filled and the water quality at appropriate parameters and if this is not the case then a water change is needed or the pond to be topped up. This also allows a full pond clean out to be taken place whether that is by the homeowner or a professional service provider.

Q: How can I stop Herons and Seagulls from taking my Fish?

Not only do pond keepers have to keep their Fish alive through care water quality monitoring, a healthy diet, adequate filtration etc. they must also be mindful of native predators, most commonly Herons and Seagulls. Herons are known for completely clearing ponds of Fish, even Koi are susceptible to predation. There are several deterrent-based products available on the market; shiny balls with eyes painted on them, Heron statues, laser and alarm systems and many more. Unfortunately, Herons are smart animals and come to learn that these products are not a threat to them and will often overlook them. Ultimately the best solution is a physical barrier whether than is a wire fence around the perimeter of the pond, netting across the pond or even electric fencing around the pond. A physical barrier will create a fool proof way of stopping the Herons from wading into the pond to collect their lunch. Seagulls on the other hand although not known for clearing ponds will give it good go trying to peck at the Fish very rarely resulting in a takeaway meal for them but leaving your Fish with open wounds often leading to infection such as ulceration if left unsupervised or treated. The same goes for Seagulls as it does for Herons, a physical barrier is your best choice however in this case Seagulls approach the water from above so any wire fencing will not work, netting or a cover over the pond is a must.

Q: What should I do with my pond during the winter?

This is a very common question asked by pond keepers in the UK where temperatures can reach subzero and consistently stay at low single digits for long periods of time. Firstly, with Fish being cold blooded animals their metabolism is affected by temperature so the colder it is the less they will want to feed, with exception to Sturgeon and Sterlets who will continue to feed throughout the winter periods. During the colder periods a reduction in feeding is expected often feeding only once a week and even a complete halt of feeding in the coldest temperatures. The next thing to think about is filtration systems, although these are vital for the rest of the year to keep the water parameters in check during the colder periods of the year where water can freeze it is worth turning all pumps off. The reason for this is even running water will freeze at 0c so the last thing you want is water to freeze in your pipes and hoses which then results in excessive pressure pushing outwards causing the pipes and hoses to split ultimately leading to leaks when the water is once again running. The last thing to consider is the oxygen levels for the Fish. If the temperature drops to 0c the water in your pond can freeze, in the deeper parts of the pond especially if dug into the ground the water is unlikely to freeze. However the surface layer will very likely freeze and if it does the vital gas exchange of oxygen entering the pond and Co2 exiting will be affected. An old school fix to this is to leave a couple of tennis balls floating in the pond so when the water does freeze you can pop the balls out leaving behind air holes. You can also break the ice but be careful as large heavy chunks of ice falling in the pond can damage the liner/walls of the pond and not to mention may hit the Fish. These days you can also purchase pond ice vents and pond heaters, these aim to produce a small area of heat that will keep the water in its immediate vicinity to not freeze.

Q: How much should I feed my pond fish?

There is no simple answer to his question as it does depend on what Fish you have, how big are they, how many Fish you have and what time of year it is. Fish are cold-blooded, so their metabolism is affected by the temperature of the water. The warmer the water the faster their metabolism is and the more they want to eat, the colder the water the less they will want to eat and in the coldest times of the year when water is low single digits or lower Fish will often cease eating altogether. But a simple rule to follow is to pop a small amount of food in, watch them feed, if they eat all the food then put some more in. Repeat this until they no longer show interest, any food left uneaten after a few minutes should be netted out otherwise it will decay in the pond and in large quantities can cause ammonia spikes.